Because the Panasonic security cameras do not communicate with the M1 Gold security system, I decided to install them first. The cameras are plug-and-play, which means I was able to quickly connect them to my existing 802.11g wireless network. Note: My network is 802.11g, so no "b" was required.
I found installing the cameras to be an extremely straightforward process. First, I installed the software on the PC. Second, the software detected my two cameras on the wireless network and prompted me to enter my network's WEP password, which I did. This connected the cameras to my wireless network.
Eight Steps to Installing the Smarthome M1 Gold Kit
Next, it was time to install the heart of the PC-based home security system, the Smarthome M1 Gold Kit.
The keypad comes with a removable wiring plug for the connecting the M1 Gold system to the keypad. The removable wiring plug has six colored cables running off of it. I spliced together the appropriate colored cables—black, white, green, and red—from the wiring plug to the same colored cables on a run of conductor cable long enough to reach the control panel.
The remaining two cables in the plug are used for ancillary purposes, such as connecting multiple keypads. The splicing process was surprisingly easy. After stripping the covering off to expose the wires, I inserted the ends of same-color pairs into the provided splicing caps, which have a conducting gel inside.
Next, I connected the keypad—via the conductor cable—to the main M1 Gold Control Board. The process for connecting this and all other components to the main control is fairly straightforward. A series of removable wiring plugs snap into the main console. You simply insert each wire from the component into the appropriate base of the wiring plug. Then, to make and secure the contact, use a flat-head screwdriver to tighten a screw above the connector. The process is similar to the way you plug in speaker wire.
Note: To avoid shocking myself or short-circuiting the system, I did not yet plug the system into a power source.
The M1's central control panel is divided into 16 wiring zones. The status of each zone is monitored by the control panel. There are two basic status types: open and closed. Depending on which wires you connect to each zone, you set the device you're connecting to the control panel to be in either a NO (normally open) or an NC (normally closed) state. A magnetic contact in your front door, for example, would be wired in an NC state. Most devices will be wired as NC, though some, such as a smoke detector, are wired to be NO. Both NC and NO devices can be daisy-chained together.
The connection for a typical NC device consists of two cable connections. A wire runs from the NC contact on the device to one of the zone contacts. Another wire runs from a C (the capacitance or capacitor) contact on the device to an N (negative) contact on the control device. A 2200-ohm EOL (end of line) resistor connects the C and NC contacts on the last (or only) device on the line. This EOL resistor allows the control panel to monitor the wiring, which prevents someone from tampering with the wiring in order to fool the panel. The connection for an NO device is similar except that the EOL transistor connecting the C and NC contacts is broken. This creates the normally open state.
In this way, I installed and connected several devices to the M1 Gold's circuitry Each device communicates an open or closed state to the M1 Gold. If this state falls outside of the parameters I'd set, the appropriate action occurs. For example, the keypad prompts for input, or the alarm rings. Here are the devices I attached:
To get it all to work, two steps are required: First, connect the M1XSP lighting/thermostat interface to the keypad and to the M1 Gold Control. Second, connect the PowerLinc V2 module to the M1 Gold Control and to a power outlet. Each remotely controlled light plugs into a wireless switch. Note: Because my house uses an old-school, non-thermostat heater, I wasn't able to take advantage of the thermostat controls. Here's a look at the lighting controls on the M1 Gold Control:
After the initialization, I took 20 minutes to create connections between the wireless light switches and the INSTEON base controller, which allows remote access to the lights in my home connected to INSTEON wireless switches. The process of creating the connections between these switches and the INSTEON base controller is virtually identical to connecting a PC's wireless keyboard and mouse to a base receiver. You press a button on the receiver that places it (the receiver) in receive mode. Then you press a button on the switch itself to connect the two.
After installing the software, I had to reboot my system. I then launched the ELK-RP software. I toggled a menu setting to set the software to communicate with the M1 Gold Control via the serial port. Then the software checked for and found compatibility.
The software then found a network connection. This let me jump into the heart of programming and automating my security system. Overall, the ELK-RP software is fairly straightforward to use. You set up a series of "Tasks" (essentially macros) that govern the system's behavior in specific situations. For example, you can set up a Task that says: "Anytime the front door is opened, the security key pad should beep for 30 seconds. If the proper code is input during this time, disarm the system. If not, sound the alarm and call the police."
With that, I had finished my installation. Was it all worthwhile? Yes. The moment I booted the system up and began to experiment with various settings and controls, my face broke into a huge smile. Within a few hours, I had completely rigged my system to operate and function like a professional installation.
Now you know how to install a wired or wireless security system, keep your customers' houses secure, and grow your business.
GEORGE JONES is a technology writer and computer-games consultant based in San Francisco.
