Upgrading CPUs and BIOS, Part 1

If you answered any of the above with a "yes," then it's time to add memory and faster CPUs to your systems. All it will take is a couple of extra hours and a little bit of cash—figure $50 to $100 per PC—to bring your aging systems into the modern world.

This Recipe is for system builders working with sub-1000-MHz Athlon or Pentium 3 or 4 processors on boards that take 168-pin SDRAM. For machines older than that, I recommend that you instead purchase a new motherboard/CPU combination and populate it with DDR SDRAM. (For more on that subject, I recommend the Foner Books article How to Replace a Motherboard.) For everyone else, this Recipe is for you.

Why Add Memory?

Should you add memory or upgrade the processor? If you're working with a modern OS that takes advantage of more memory, such as Linux W2000 or Windows XP, and you aren&'t already running 1 GB or more of memory, opt for the memory. In this case, bringing the computer up to an adequate memory level will make a much bigger difference on CPU-intensive operations than would even doubling the processor speed. Adding, say, 512 MB of memory will really speed any operations that are memory-intensive.

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Adding memory makes a difference because the usual entry-level SDRAM configuration of 256 MB or less provided by vendors on older machines is no longer adequate for running modern operating systems, at least, not as quickly as they can run. While modern OSes can, in theory, run with 256 MB or even less, they really should have at least 768 MB available. Preferably, even more. This way, the data sets required to run the OS and applications will run in real memory—that is, within the available SDRAM, instead of being saved to virtual memory.

Virtual memory is a chunk of hard drive (often called the "swap file") that is used to emulate SDRAM for operations that don&'t fit within the available real memory. This emulation works, but at millisecond speeds instead of the nanosecond speeds of SDRAM. Operations that "page" to and from virtual memory—that is, take a chunk of memory content and put or pull it into the swap file—are therefore much, much slower than those that fit into available real memory.

Also, without enough SDRAM, a great many operations require virtual memory, and the CPU ends up wasting most of its time waiting for the data it needs to perform operations requested by the user. The outcome: The user wastes time waiting for the computer. This, of course, is the main reason a user would want to upgrade their computer in the first place.

Before you add memory, check the motherboard manual for the type of SDRAM that works with your motherboard. Any SDRAM that matches your machine—for example, PC100, PC133, or DDR or DDRx2, unbuffered or buffered—should plug in. You can take advantage of extra SDRAM without concerns over configuration or exactly matching a processor or chipset.

Before You Replace That CPU...

Processor speeds are tricky. Doubling a system's CPU clock speed will not double the computer's overall processing speed for many operations. The reason: Many applications are limited by memory or even hard-drive speeds. So, to support a faster CPU, you may also need to add faster memory or even a bigger power-supply unit (PSU). To be sure, research the recommended power levels for your CPU from vendor sites or user forums. If power supply is a problem, a good bet is to look into mobile CPU versions, as they draw far less power than standard desktop CPUs.

Also, it's important to know that just because a CPU fits into a motherboard's CPU socket doesn&'t necessarily mean the CPU will work. Always check CPU compatibility with the motherboard first. Also, sometimes when you replace a CPU, you will also need to replace the flash BIOS firmware. Another piece of information to research before you start.

But assuming you do want to upgrade a system's CPU, here are several points to consider before you start:

If you've gotten this far, stop and add up the upgrade budget to decide whether it&'s worthwhile proceeding with the upgrade. The upside? While your competitors are waiting for prices to drop on next-generation motherboards/CPUs, your systems will already be running substantially faster. The downside: It is possible to put all the pieces together "correctly" for a CPU upgrade, only to find the system won&'t run. This is usually due to a BIOS incompatibility, though sometimes it may be due to the CPU-support chipset incompatibilities I discussed above. CPU Upgrade Ingredients

Ready to take the CPU plunge? Good. Here are the components you'll need for a processor upgrade:

Choosing the CPU

The original processor on the test system for this Recipe was an AMD Duron 900. The first place I looked for a possible CPU replacement was in the "compatible CPU" list of the accompanying motherboard manual.

I wound up choosing a Duron 1800, as I liked the low price ($45 from newegg); the high performance; plus, it runs cool (the highest temperature I saw was 105 degrees F).

Unfortunately, after my purchase, I discovered from a user group that the Duron 1800 isn't fully compatible with my PCChips M810LR v5.1 (or v7.1 under the sticker) motherboard. The Duron 1800 is not simply a faster version of the same chip, it&'s the "Applebred" derivative of the Throughbred core (that is, an Athlon 2200 with reduced L2 cache).

The lesson here: Do your homework! The time to learn that a processor/CPU combination won't work is before you purchase the CPU. Don't make the same mistake I did.

Replacing the CPU

To get started, unplug the power cord to the PSU. Put your computer on a table in a well-lit work area and remove the access panel. Touch a grounded surface within the case (for example, the outside of the PSU). Or, if your case is metal, touch the case itself in order to discharge any static electricity you may be carrying.

To get access to the main power supply connector (the big, rectangular multipin connector) and the CPU, you'll probably have to remove the PSU. A typical motherboard power connector is shown here:

Identifying the CPU should be easy. It will be under either the only fan or the largest fan on the motherboard. The memory sticks are 5.25 inches long and usually 1.375 inches high, and you can&'t really mistake them for anything else. Insert memory sticks into the socket with the notch on bottom of the stick lining up with the bump inside the memory socket. You should hear (or feel) a click from each side of the memory stick if it was inserted correctly.

Pull out the boards and disk drives to get sufficient clearance and gain access to the parts you intend to work on. Then put the PCBs on a conductive surface. In my case, all I had to do to get access to the CPU and memory was pull out the PSU, slide the drives forward in the drive bays, and shove the cables out of the way. What you'll need to do will of course depend on what&'s inside your box.

Removing the CPU

I've never liked AMD's spring-loaded processor clip that attaches the cooler; in my opinion, it's unnecessarily difficult to remove and reattach. The first time I did this—replacing the chip cooler with a much larger third-party model—I almost destroyed the processor. I rounded two of the corners of the ceramic CPU block and knocked off the felt pads at those corners. This photo shows what happens when one doesn&'t get and follow the right information on how to replace the processor first:

Rather than go through all the steps here, I can recommend that you view the how-to video on AMD's Processor and Heatsink Installation page.

For much larger CPU coolers than the video details, I&'ve had success following these three steps:

Because I don't own or work on computers with Intel CPUs—even my 286 boxes were AMD-based—I'll recommend that if you are working with an Intel CPU, you should see Intel's installation information. It includes a how-to video, which you can view from this Intel Pentium 4 processor page.

For either the AMD or Intel CPUs, once you have removed the processor, carefully place it on a conductive plastic or metal surface. You will need the old processor if the CPU swap fails.

Working with Heatsink Compound

To begin this task, use rubbing alcohol to clean any residual heatsink compound off the flat side of the CPU cooler and off the CPU you have removed.

If the heatsink compound manufacturer says to use something else to remove heatsink compound (such as thermal pads), you should use them instead.

If heatsink compound didn't come with the CPU, purchase some. You can buy compound at any computer store that sells hardware components, even from Radio Shack. Compound comes in a wide range of compositions and price ranges. I don't think there's much difference between no-name metal-loaded silicon grease and the exotic (and more expensive) compounds when used with low to midrange CPUs. All heatsink compound is a thermal insulator whose sole purpose is to fill in air-filled tiny voids or irregularities on the apparently smooth metallic surfaces, so they can make perfect thermal contact.

If you're putting in a high-end processor and/or overclocking, you'll need every edge you can get to keep your CPU from melting down. So for high-performance processors, look for some comparative heatsink compound reviews based on tests. A good place to check is The Tech Zone Thermal Compound Comparison page.

Believe it or not, the most important consideration in installing a CPU successfully just may be how you apply the heatsink compound. You don't want a thick, visible layer of compound between the CPU and the heatsink. Unless, that is, you want to fry the CPU and perhaps damage the motherboard!

To do it right, first put a small blob of compound on each contact surface: the cooler bottom and the metallic part on top of the CPU that contacts the cooler. Use a piece of paper or a plastic card to smear compound over the surfaces. Then use a chunk of paper towel to spread it to a thin layer. You want to "sort of" polish the compound into the contact surfaces. The point is to use just enough, so that when you smear on the compound, you will see a faint haze on the contact surfaces.

Next, replace the CPU in the ZIF socket. Flip the lever that actuates the socket contacts. Put the cooler back onto its socket. Replace any cards you removed. Reconnect the power supply cables to the internal components. Finally, put the PSU back into the computer case.

Restarting the Computer

It's finally time to boot up the computer. First, go into the BIOS during the boot process. On the computers I use, this is done by hitting the Del key while the boot memory test is going on. It may require something else for yours, so watch the screen carefully during the boot process. Or check the manual.

If your computer is set for quick boot, you might have to hit the Del key as soon as the hardware boot image is displayed. If you see a splash screen, it's too late. If you do miss it, you'll have to let the system boot the rest of the way; then shut down the system and try again.

During the troubleshooting phase, I recommend turning off Fast Boot and going through the full Power On Self Test (POST) at least once. This test shows the computer counting its way through the total amount of SDRAM. By letting the computer go through the full POST process, you verify that the memory is working. Also, this gives you extra time to hit the key that will take you into the BIOS, since the only time when one can get into the BIOS is during POST.

At last you should be at the BIOS screen where one sets the CPU and clock multipliers that determine the CPU speed. Ask yourself these questions: Was the CPU recognized correctly? Do your CPU and memory/FSB settings make sense for what you&'ve put in? If all looks well, save the changes and exit. The computer should boot normally, but now it should also run a lot faster. Troubleshooting Tips

But what if it doesn't boot? That happened to me. The processor simply wouldn't work when I selected the required 133 MHz CPU or FSB bus multiplier speeds. The fix required replacing the BIOS firmware and getting additional help on a motherboard user forum. I'll talk more about this in Part 2 of this Recipe next week. Meantime, here are some suggestions:

So, if the system rebooted correctly, give yourself a much-deserved pat on the back! You've successfully upgraded a system's CPU, and you can now provide your customers a faster machine.

Finally, if the system's BIOS continues to incorrectly identify the newly installed processor (even though the system is running fine), the system likely needs a BIOS upgrade. I'll cover that in Part 2 of this Recipe.

SIDEBAR: Alternatives To Upgrading

Looking for an excuse to not upgrade a system's CPU? Well, consider that the price on next-generation motherboards with 64-bit CPU, SATA hard drives, PC-Express adaptor cards replacing both AGP and PCI bus cards and DDRx2 memory will likely drop by next year. So you could be better off waiting, rather than dropping a lot of money into a CPU upgrade.

In fact, the prices for many next-generation motherboards and memory have already dropped, though 64-bit and dual-core CPUs are still expensive. Some software, however, is not ready for use with 64-bit CPUs. This is why I decided to upgrade the CPU and memory on my system instead of replacing my current motherboard with another current generation "Socket A" CPU motherboard for an AMD 32-bit processor. I wanted to get another year out of my current system!

A trip to my local Fry&'s Electronics revealed that all the motherboards for sale required DDR/DDR2 memory. This probably means you&'ll have to buy the168-pin SDRAM generation of motherboard over the Internet. I&'ve had good experiences with both newegg or Computergeeks, and I recommend that you try them.

Another alternative is buying older components from another white box vendor. For example, I found a motherboard and video card at a local white box vendor for $25. Happy hunting!

This is Part 1 of a two-part Recipe. You can view Part 2 here.

A. LIZARD is an Internet consultant in the San Francisco Bay Area. He has been writing for technology magazines and Web sites since 1987.