How To Build a High-End Gaming PC
In this Recipe, I'll guide you through the build of a PC guaranteed to make any performance-craving gamer drool. Even better, I'll stick to a budget of $5,000 (though not including monitor and speakers).
To be sure, that price ceiling means no tricked-out water cooling, no PSU redundancy, and no superclocked video cards. I'll also be eschewing the latest CPUs to attain a better dollar-to-performance ratio. But this is still one screaming-fast system. Let's take a look at the components you'll need.
INGREDIENTS
The components required for cooking up this high-end game rig are basic yet potent. Even better, aside from a few strategic parts, they are interchangeable, as long as the specs compare.
I provide additional suggestions to trim costs and expand capabilities at the end of this Recipe. Throughout, my "best price" averages for each component are derived from Pricewatch, my preferred source for pricing comparisons.
Let's get started by reviewing what we'll need for this build.
Case: Aesthetics, size, expandability, construction, cooling and noise dampening are important factors when choosing an enclosure. Select one built from quality materials that is also large enough to accommodate your components without cramping them. Also, select a case that offers sufficient air cooling for the heat-spawning parts we'll be using.
Given my enthusiast loadout, I choose Nvidia's SLI-Certified version of the Cooler Master Stacker.
This special-edition 830 Evolution Case is an attractive (albeit extremely large) aluminum chassis with rounded edges, smooth curves and Nvidia's distinctive green-and-black design. Other cool features include a streamlined design, Stacker 832-style door, 4-in-3 device module, tool-free installation, enhanced thermal management, top-mounted I/O panel, and a wealth of drive bays. Add an extra 4-in-3 Module ($20) for improved hard-drive cooling. Here's a look at the Cooler Master Stacker case:
Power Supply: Given all the high-end components needed for this build, you'll need a quality power supply with plenty of oomph. You also need a power supply that's SLI-Ready and has at least four six-pin PCI-E connectors.
My choice: Thermaltake's new Toughpower 1000W PSU. This baby sports the eight-pin PCI-E connectors required for the next generation of graphics cards. The Toughpower 1000W retails for approximately $320, and it features a 14-cm. ball-bearing fan for quiet operation, as well as what's known as "modular cable management" to eliminate clutter. Here's a look at this power supply:
Processor: Though dual-core processors are still faster for most of today's games, the future is quad-and-beyond. Thus, my choice is a quad-core CPU. With AMD outclassed at this stage, it's simply a matter of which Intel part to employ: the new 2.93-GHz QX6800, the original 2.66-GHz QX6700, or the recently released 2.4-GHz Q6600? All are able performers, posting scores nearly on par with their dual-core brethren. But as more and more games are optimized to utilize more than two cores, expect performance to improve appreciably.
My decision: Intel's Core2 Extreme Quad-Core Processor (QX6700). I chose this CPU mainly to keep my rig's tab below $5,000. In fact, by accepting a small performance hit over Intel's other top-dog CPU (at a much higher price), I netted a significant cost savings. The QX6700 currently sells for around $970, compared with nearly $1,200 for the overpriced and in-short-supply QX6800.
Here's a look at Intel's QX6700 processor:
Heatsink and Fan (HSF): It pays to invest in a quality HSF, especially if you plan to overclock.
To keep my quad running cool and fast, I selected Thermaltake's new $53 MaxOrb. This large, efficient, easy-to-install cooler outperforms stock units. Yet it is nearly silent in operation, even though it sports a 110-mm. adjustable-speed fan. Here's a look at this HSF:
Motherboard: Only a few motherboards have the moxie to stand capacitor-to-capacitor against EVGA's nForce 680i SLI. In fact, it's hard to find a better blend of stability, features and price.
The latest A1 version is extremely overclock-friendly. It can handle all Intel 775-based processors. And it includes NVIDIA SLI-Ready memory support. This motherboard also features dual PCI-E x16 SLI video slots, a third PCI-E slot for graphics/physics expansion, and dual Gigabit Ethernet. At $240 after rebate, it's the best value in an nForce 680i-based mainboard out there.
Video Cards: My only choice right now for high-end, DirectX 10-compatible video is NVIDIA's top-of-the-line GeForce 8800 cards: the GTX and Ultra. Of course, for SLI we need a pair of these behemoths. But which ones?
Prices for GTX cards vary by as much as $400. The most affordable models cost approximately $530, while top-of-class water-cooled contenders go for as much as $940. The new Ultra enters the fray at $829 and up.
Weighing all factors -- performance, price, cooling method and footprint -- the choice was surprisingly easy. I selected a pair of default-clocked PNY 8800 GTX 768-MB PCI-E cards at $530 each. With a core clock of 575 MHz, shader clock of 1350 MHz, and an effective memory frequency of 1.8 GHz, these PNY cards are a great cost-to-performance duo. Here's a look:
Memory: Under a 32-bit OS, 2 GB of memory is sufficient. In fact, 4 GB provides no appreciable performance boost. So I'm packing 2 GB into this rig, which will give us adequate headroom for both the OS and games.
For reliable performance and tweakability, I recommend one of Corsair's Twin2X2048-9136C5D Dominator 2 GB matched-pair DDR2 performance memory kits. It sells for just under $410. This kit contains DIMMs verified to operate at 1142 MHz at latencies of 5-5-5-15. It's pictured here:
While 32-bit versions of Vista support up to 4 GB of memory, the OS doesn't report the full amount. A simplistic explanation is that it's a limitation of the 32-bit environment. Unfortunately, 64-bit Vista presently lacks an equal level of driver maturity. So for compatibility, going 32-bit is the better choice, at least for now. Hopefully, with the SP1 update, an upgrade to 64-bit Vista and 4 GB of RAM will be in order.
For more on this issue, see the Microsoft Knowledge Base articles #929580 and #929605. Also check out this TabBlogger post, The 3GB-not-4GB RAM problem.
Hard Drives: We need multiple drives to achieve an ideal balance for capacity, performance, reliability and redundancy. For the boot drive, I chose to pair two Western Digital 10,000-RPM Raptors in a RAID 0 array. A first-generation SATA drive, the Raptor's breakneck spindle speed compensates for the lack of SATA 3.0's improved transfer rate and native command queuing (NCQ). At a little over $300, two of these 74-GB models are more affordable than the 150 GB drives. Yet they are equally fast and large enough to handle the OS and basic applications.
The bulk of my storage is supplied by a pair of 750 GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 SATA 3.0 drives in a RAID 1 array, sporting both NCQ and perpendicular recording technology.
Pictured below, these ample drives are fast, especially in overall burst speed. They carry a five-year warranty. And they run coolly and quietly. Offering an excellent value in cost-per-MB, they're available for $480 a pair:
Optical Drive: To handle optical chores, I selected Lite-On's LH-20A1S, available for around $37.
It spins up a maximum writing speed of 20x for DVD+/-R media, 8x for DVD+/-R9, 48x for CD-R/ROM, and 12x for DVD-RAM. While this drive does not support LightScribe disc labeling, that's not an issue for most gamers. (For those who do care about LightScribe, the LH-20A1L, scheduled to ship in June, will support it.) Here's a look at the LH-20A1S:
ReadyBoost Flash Drive: Vista features a new disk-caching technology, called ReadyBoost, that is designed to improve the OS's responsiveness. By using flash memory, such as a USB 2.0 flash drive, a system builder can add a bit more "snap" to the OS by improving performance on small, random I/O activity. A flash drive like Lexar's 2-GB JumpDrive Lightning, shown below, costs just $45 and makes a worthwhile investment. Take a look:
Audio Card: While on-board audio has improved, it still pales when compared against a dedicated solution. I recommend Creative's X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty Pro Series card for $130. Your customers will reap the benefits: improved audio reproduction, high-quality re-sampling, and reduced CPU utilization. Couple that with Creative ALchemy, for converting DS3D and EAX calls into OpenAL, and legacy games will sound as good as ever. Here's a shot of the XtremeGamer audio card:
KeyboardMouse: I selected Logitech's high-end, cordless combo for this rig, the Vista-Certified diNovo Edge keyboard ($199) and Logitech's MX Revolution mouse ($99).
The Edge keyboard lacks a dedicated number pad and game-specific keys. Yet it's slim and sexy, offers excellent wireless performance (best-to-date), sports a great feel, and runs for weeks on a single charge. And the Revolution is as good as a mouse gets. Stylish and comfortable (except for lefties), this cordless rodent offers great precision, range and battery life. Both components are shown here:
For those who prefer a more "connected" and affordable experience, there are several good options. One good wired, game-specific alternative is Logitech's G15 Gaming Keyboard and G5 Laser Mouse. I also like Microsoft's Reclusa Gaming Keyboard and Habu Laser Gaming Mouse. Both mouse-keyboard combos retail for roughly $120.
Universal Power Supply (UPS): Because gamers will be making a substantial investment on this new PC, it makes sense for them to protect that investment. Perhaps the best and easiest way is with a quality UPS.
For this Recipe, I recommend APC's Back-UPS ES 750VA. For $100, this UPS offers sufficient output power capacity, surge and data-line protection, noise filtering and a lifetime $50,000 equipment protection policy. Here's a look:
Extra Case Fans: To keep memory and video cards running cool, I added two additional case fans: 120-mm. Antec TriCool three-speed models in "NVIDIA green." At $20 each, they balance maximum cooling with quiet performance.
Operating System: Most hardware drivers are now stable enough for you to pick Windows Vista 32-bit as the OS-of-choice for a high-end game rig, unless the system is being used for purposes beyond gaming. In that case, lingering compatibility issues may dictate XP as the necessary choice.
Otherwise, hard-core gamers should go for Vista Home Premium or Ultimate. I chose the latter, at $190. Games enhanced for DirectX 10 are already arriving, and those designed specifically for the new API will begin to filter in this summer. To fully enjoy titles like Crysis, Age of Conan and Hellgate: London, Vista and DirectX 10 are mandatory.
In total, the above components bring the cost of this high-end rig to $4,915, just under our $5,000 ceiling. A solid accomplishment!
As a system builder, do your customers an enormous favor and provide them with a disaster proof PC from the start. For more information, see my earlier TechBuilder Recipe, Build Disaster-Proof Systems. 12 STEPS TO ASSEMBLE THE SYSTEM
With the components selected, it's time to assemble the rig, install the software, run benchmarks and perform the final tweaks.
While the steps for constructing a PC are similar from one build to another, one determining factor is often the case. Since the Cooler Master Stacker includes a fairly decent installation guide, I'll adhere to it closely in the following 12 steps.
- Case: Remove the case's door and side panels, and detach the multi-function fan bracket to make working inside the case easier. Next, extract the motherboard tray and remove the stock I/O shield. Refer to the enclosed installation guide for panel and tray unlocking/locking procedures.
- Motherboard: Install the spacers on the mainboard tray. A template is provided. Then mount the new I/O shield. Next, attach the motherboard. If the HSF you selected uses a backplate, secure it before fastening the motherboard to the tray.
- Processor, Chipset FanHSF: Install the CPU in its socket. Then mount the chipset fan (if not already affixed), and plug in its power connector. Apply thermal compound to the processor. Then mount the HSF, and attach its fan connector.
- MemoryVideo Cards: Insert the DIMMs in memory slots 0 and 1. Next, remove the necessary PCI-E slot covers, and install the 8800 GTX cards in the PCI-E X16 slots closest to and furthest from the processor. When employing two video cards in SLI, the audio card is sandwiched between them. Remove the appropriate slot cover, but don't install the card yet (you'll see why shortly). Do not attach the SLI bridge yet, either.
- Power Supply: Remove the PSU retaining bracket from the back of the chassis, and attach it to the power supply. Slide the unit into the case. Re-attach the bracket, securing the power supply in the process.
- Motherboard Tray: Carefully lay the case on its side. Slide the motherboard tray into place, but leave it unlocked.
- Front-Panel Wiring: Route and connect the front-panel wiring, fastening the switches and lights, as well as the USB 2.0 and IEEE 1394a connectors. (The front audio connectors are not used). The IEEE 1394a header is right next to the base of the PCI slot employed by the audio card; it is impossible to reach once the card is mounted.
- Audio Card: With front-panel wiring attached, install the audio card. Then carefully slide the motherboard tray far enough out of the case to secure the audio card. While it's out, also attach the eight-pin ATX power connector from the PSU to the mobo (the HSF blocks access with the tray closed). Then push the tray back in, lock it down, and install the SLI bridge.
- Optical Drive: Flip open the left- and right-side retention brackets on the front of the case that secure the drive-bay shields. Remove one of the upper two shields. Slide the drive into the bay. Fasten the drive by moving the tool-free latches on each side into their locked position.
- Hard Drives: With the retention brackets still open, pop off the three drive-bay shields in front of the preinstalled 4-in-3 Device Module (plus the three mention in the above step). Remove the four screws securing it and extract the module. Next, attach the two Seagate hard drives, leaving space between each drive for optimal airflow, and remount the module. Take the second 4-in-3, install the Raptors in it, and mount the device directly above the other module. Pop all the shields back on. Finally, close the retention brackets.
- Final Wiring: Route and connect the wiring. First, plug the appropriate modular cables into the PSU, and attach them to the motherboard, video cards, hard drives, optical drive and case fans. Then run SATA cables from the mobo to the optical drive and hard drives. Next, use cable ties to secure the wiring. Install the two additional case fans in the multi-function fan bracket, reattach it to the chassis, and connect the fans. Finally, plug in the monitor, keyboard and mouse.
- Initial Boot: Turn on the power supply, and press the power button. If the components were correctly installed, a POST (Power-On Self Test) message will display on the monitor, accompanied by an audible beep. If so, replace the door and side panels, and lock everything in place. If not, check all connections and try again.
4 STEPS TO INSTALL THE SOFTWARE
Now that the hardware is functioning, it's time to configure the BIOS (Basic Input/Output System), format the hard drives, install the OS, and tweak everything. Here are 4 steps to follow:
- Configure the BIOS: I recommend that you limit BIOS changes to basic settings. First, verify that the BIOS is current, because revisions may have appeared since the motherboard left the factory, and you'll need to flash it, if necessary.
- Next, disable floppy-drive support. Set the boot order to hard drive first, followed by optical and removable drives. Enable SATA and RAID support, disable on-board audio, and reboot the system. Next, configure the RAID arrays, RAID 0 for the Raptors and RAID 1 for the Seagates.
- Install the OS: Put the Vista install disc in the optical drive, reboot the system, then follow the prompts. Choose the RAID 0 array as the location for the OS installation.
- Once Vista is up and running, install any drivers Vista missed, and verify that the ones installed automatically are the most current versions. Also, make sure all updates are applied to the OS.
- Next, partition and format the RAID 1 array. Finally, add other software that's part of the package, and image the RAID 0 array.
- Benchmark the System: With the drive imaging done, for a quick restore to pre-benchmark status, install and run your benchmarking suite to establish default performance.
- For a quick baseline, a good short-list of games will include 3DMark06, PCMark05, F.E.A.R, Company of Heroes and Oblivion. To derive a broader performance comparison, add games such as Supreme Commander, Half-Life 2: Lost Coast and Call of Duty 2.
- Overclock Components: A mix of art and science, overclocking is simultaneously exacting and seat-of-the-pants. It's also an area where small- and medium-size builders can distinguish themselves. But here are 2 rules of thumb: Overclock in modest increments only, and never compromise stability. As for component order, start with the CPU and memory. Then move on to the video cards.
- How much overclocking is possible? In theory, you can push the stock 2.66 GHz CPU to approximately 3.46 GHz and still remain stable. Memory can reach a maximum reliable speed of 1142 MHz, maybe a touch more. As for the GTX cards, you should be able to gain approximately a 10 percent boost in GPU performance over stock settings with on-board memory averaging closer to a five-percent improvement.
- A good resource for overclocking 680i-based systems, as well as 8800-class video cards, is the Nvidia nForce 680i SLI Overclocking Guide.
SUBSTITUTIONS FOR PRICE AND PERFORMANCE
Every build is a compromise of budget constraints, component availability and changing technology. To meet customers' needs, upgrade for greater performance and make the necessary cut backs to rein in costs. Here are some suggestions on each:
To Increase Performance:
- Replace the QX6700 with the slightly-more-potent QX6800.
- Substitute 8800 Ultras or overclocked GTXs for the basic GTX cards.
- Install water-cooling for near-silent operation and greater overclocking. For help, see this TechBuilder Recipe: Keeping Hot Systems Totally Cool.
- Include another optical drive to reduce disc swapping.
To Cut Costs:
- Install the less-powerful Q6600 in place of the QX6700.
- Start with a single 8800 GTX card, possibly an overclocked version.
- Cut back to a single 74-GB Raptor sans RAID 0.
- Use lower-capacity Seagates in place of the 750-GB drives.
- Replace the keyboard and mouse with less-expensive alternatives.
In the end, both gamer and system builder score big when it comes to getting the most bang-for-the-buck in an enthusiast system. It's also a great way to make sure your rigs stand out from the crowd.
CHUCK MILLER is a technology journalist and game consultant. For nearly two decades he has covered the computer and video game industries, filling editorial roles at Computer Gaming World, Game Briefs and GamePower.